Just so everyone knows that no major car makers use break in oil for the last 25 years. I know because I retired service manager in the automotive dealerships for both domestic and foreign companies. Oil gets black as it ages does mean it’s not doing what it was make for. Why do you think that your car does percentage for life of oil.I decided to do my first oil change today on my RS with the 1.3T engine which now has 3500 miles.
The 1.3T engine calls for 4.8 quarts of 0W/20 Dexos synthetic oil and a GM/AC Delco PF66 or UPF66R oil filter. K&N also makes an oil filter for the 1.3T, part number HP-1021. If you have the 1.2T engine the oil is 5W/30 and also requires a different filter. I bought Royal Purple oil since it's higher quality than most oils, but I would also recommend Mobil 1 which is factory fill on most GM's.
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I removed the whole plastic splash shield to get some pictures, but there is an access door that's easier to remove for oil changes.
If you remove the whole shield it's (13) 7mm screws and (3) plastic reusable rivets that hold the shield in place. The smaller access panel is just (3) 7mm screws.
The drain plug is a twist lock/unlock design with a large o-ring so it doesn't require a torque spec. The plug requires an 8mm allen wrench and is located on the plastic oil pan. If you would like to have a spare oil drain plug on hand the GM part number is 55498782.
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The first recommended oil change is at 7500 miles, but after only 3600 miles the oil was very dark which I figured it would be for break in oil, so don't wait 7500 miles, lol.
I also clean the MAF sensor when doing an oil change. If you decide to do this you'll need to remove (2) T20 torx screws and use CRC MAF cleaner.
One word of caution! When filling with new oil, the fill hole has a small drain into the engine so pour the oil in slowly or it will overflow and spill out.
Here are some random pics I took while I was underneath.
Cool Watts Link rear end location system which keeps the rear axle centered properly.
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One thing I found interesting was that the electric parking brake locks the front wheels and not the rear wheels like most vehicles.
Yes, break in oil hasn't been used in new vehicles for a long time. Everything now is just a factory filled with Dexos rated synthetic oil. The first recommended oil change is at 7500 miles or when the oil percentage gets to 10%. When I changed my oil at 3600 miles my oil percentage was around 45% which wouldn't indicate that it needs to be changed. New engines still have a break in period and metal particles do get into the oil not to mention the oil breaks down faster in a turbo engine. I always recommend changing the factory fill oil way before the manual or OLM says to because the oil will be bad shape due to the break in process. After that first oil change I use the OLM and change the oil when it gets to 20%, but never any lower than 10%.Just so everyone knows that no major car makers use break in oil for the last 25 years. I know because I retired service manager in the automotive dealerships for both domestic and foreign companies. Oil gets black as it ages does mean it’s not doing what it was make for. Why do you think that your car does percentage for life of oil.
Thank you @ZR2LIFE. Your write-up is spot on and appreciated.The drain plug is a twist lock/unlock design with a large o-ring so it doesn't require a torque spec. The plug requires an 8mm allen wrench and is located on the plastic oil pan.
There have been alot of cracked oil drain plugs being replaced by dealerships because their techs are using a 3/8 ratchet instead of the allen head. You may get lucky using a 3/8, but that's not how the plug was designed to be removed.Thank you @ZR2LIFE. Your write-up is spot on and appreciated.
I recently performed an oil change and was trying to recall your tool list from memory. Of course, my memory failed. As I looked up at the drain plug, the first thing that is visualized is the square hole. Hmmm, I thought he said a allen wrench... Anyway, a 3/8" square drive extension fits perfectly. So, for those that have read this thread this far, a popular 3/8" square drive ratchet or T-handle with a short extension works just fine (at least on my car). Very little torque is required to turn the drain plug, and yes, the oil gushes out.
It's really not that bad if your quick and wear nitrile gloves. My 23 Corvette also has a vertical oil drain plug and it wasn't bad either. I recommend using the allen head for the drain plug removal and it's wise to keep a spare drain plug on hand since it's plastic, but at the very least some spare o-rings. I'm actually going to post some stuff for sale like an oil change kit (AC Delco ultraguard oil filter, GM drain plug w/o-ring, another GM o-ring for the drain plug) and some other stuff.So how are you all avoiding a major mess with a plug that drops straight down? I'm used to our Volvos which have a traditional horizontal threaded plug which doesn't let the oil out until the very last thread turn. This lets me get my hand out of the way right before it comes out. This looks like a major splash event waiting to happen every time. Advice/tips for a clean procedure appreciated!