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Oil and filter change, 1.3T RS AWD

42088 Views 60 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  martin.rigid66
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I decided to do my first oil change today on my RS with the 1.3T engine which now has 3500 miles.

The 1.3T engine calls for 4.8 quarts of 0W/20 Dexos synthetic oil and a GM/AC Delco PF66 or UPF66R oil filter. K&N also makes an oil filter for the 1.3T, part number HP-1021. If you have the 1.2T engine the oil is 5W/30 and also requires a different filter. I bought Royal Purple oil since it's higher quality than most oils, but I would also recommend Mobil 1 which is factory fill on most GM's.
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I removed the whole plastic splash shield to get some pictures, but there is an access door that's easier to remove for oil changes.

If you remove the whole shield it's (13) 7mm screws and (3) plastic reusable rivets that hold the shield in place. The smaller access panel is just (3) 7mm screws.

The drain plug is a twist lock/unlock design with a large o-ring so it doesn't require a torque spec. The plug requires an 8mm allen wrench and is located on the plastic oil pan. If you would like to have a spare oil drain plug on hand the GM part number is 55498782.
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The first recommended oil change is at 7500 miles, but after only 3600 miles the oil was very dark which I figured it would be for break in oil, so don't wait 7500 miles, lol.

I also clean the MAF sensor when doing an oil change. If you decide to do this you'll need to remove (2) T20 torx screws and use CRC MAF cleaner.

One word of caution! When filling with new oil, the fill hole has a small drain into the engine so pour the oil in slowly or it will overflow and spill out.

Here are some random pics I took while I was underneath.

Cool Watts Link rear end location system which keeps the rear axle centered properly.
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Exhaust system.
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One thing I found interesting was that the electric parking brake locks the front wheels and not the rear wheels like most vehicles.
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Thanks for the pix cause I just completed a oil/oil filter change on a 2022 TB 1.3 AWD with no issues
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I decided to do my first oil change today on my RS with the 1.3T engine which now has 3500 miles.

The 1.3T engine calls for 4.8 quarts of 0W/20 Dexos synthetic oil and a GM/AC Delco PF66 or UPF66R oil filter. K&N also makes an oil filter for the 1.3T, part number HP-1021. If you have the 1.2T engine the oil is 5W/30 and also requires a different filter. I bought Royal Purple oil since it's higher quality than most oils, but I would also recommend Mobil 1 which is factory fill on most GM's.
View attachment 273

I removed the whole plastic splash shield to get some pictures, but there is an access door that's easier to remove for oil changes.

If you remove the whole shield it's (13) 7mm screws and (3) plastic reusable rivets that hold the shield in place. The smaller access panel is just (3) 7mm screws.

The drain plug is a twist lock/unlock design with a large o-ring so it doesn't require a torque spec. The plug requires an 8mm allen wrench and is located on the plastic oil pan. If you would like to have a spare oil drain plug on hand the GM part number is 55498782.
View attachment 270

View attachment 271

View attachment 272

View attachment 902

The first recommended oil change is at 7500 miles, but after only 3600 miles the oil was very dark which I figured it would be for break in oil, so don't wait 7500 miles, lol.

I also clean the MAF sensor when doing an oil change. If you decide to do this you'll need to remove (2) T20 torx screws and use CRC MAF cleaner.

One word of caution! When filling with new oil, the fill hole has a small drain into the engine so pour the oil in slowly or it will overflow and spill out.

Here are some random pics I took while I was underneath.

Cool Watts Link rear end location system which keeps the rear axle centered properly.
View attachment 274

Exhaust system.
View attachment 275

View attachment 276

View attachment 277

View attachment 278

One thing I found interesting was that the electric parking brake locks the front wheels and not the rear wheels like most vehicles.
Just so everyone knows that no major car makers use break in oil for the last 25 years. I know because I retired service manager in the automotive dealerships for both domestic and foreign companies. Oil gets black as it ages does mean it’s not doing what it was make for. Why do you think that your car does percentage for life of oil.
Just so everyone knows that no major car makers use break in oil for the last 25 years. I know because I retired service manager in the automotive dealerships for both domestic and foreign companies. Oil gets black as it ages does mean it’s not doing what it was make for. Why do you think that your car does percentage for life of oil.
Yes, break in oil hasn't been used in new vehicles for a long time. Everything now is just a factory filled with Dexos rated synthetic oil. The first recommended oil change is at 7500 miles or when the oil percentage gets to 10%. When I changed my oil at 3600 miles my oil percentage was around 45% which wouldn't indicate that it needs to be changed. New engines still have a break in period and metal particles do get into the oil not to mention the oil breaks down faster in a turbo engine. I always recommend changing the factory fill oil way before the manual or OLM says to because the oil will be bad shape due to the break in process. After that first oil change I use the OLM and change the oil when it gets to 20%, but never any lower than 10%.
The drain plug is a twist lock/unlock design with a large o-ring so it doesn't require a torque spec. The plug requires an 8mm allen wrench and is located on the plastic oil pan.
Thank you @ZR2LIFE. Your write-up is spot on and appreciated.

I recently performed an oil change and was trying to recall your tool list from memory. Of course, my memory failed. As I looked up at the drain plug, the first thing that is visualized is the square hole. Hmmm, I thought he said a allen wrench... Anyway, a 3/8" square drive extension fits perfectly. So, for those that have read this thread this far, a popular 3/8" square drive ratchet or T-handle with a short extension works just fine (at least on my car). Very little torque is required to turn the drain plug, and yes, the oil gushes out.
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Thank you @ZR2LIFE. Your write-up is spot on and appreciated.

I recently performed an oil change and was trying to recall your tool list from memory. Of course, my memory failed. As I looked up at the drain plug, the first thing that is visualized is the square hole. Hmmm, I thought he said a allen wrench... Anyway, a 3/8" square drive extension fits perfectly. So, for those that have read this thread this far, a popular 3/8" square drive ratchet or T-handle with a short extension works just fine (at least on my car). Very little torque is required to turn the drain plug, and yes, the oil gushes out.
There have been alot of cracked oil drain plugs being replaced by dealerships because their techs are using a 3/8 ratchet instead of the allen head. You may get lucky using a 3/8, but that's not how the plug was designed to be removed.
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There have been alot of cracked oil drain plugs being replaced by dealerships because their techs are using a 3/8 ratchet instead of the allen head. You may get lucky using a 3/8, but that's not how the plug was designed to be removed.
Good to know. Thank you.
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this post, especially the OP. Just did my oil change after 1,200 miles. I was surprised at how dark the oil was and how heavy the filter was. This post made it much easier.
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So how are you all avoiding a major mess with a plug that drops straight down? I'm used to our Volvos which have a traditional horizontal threaded plug which doesn't let the oil out until the very last thread turn. This lets me get my hand out of the way right before it comes out. This looks like a major splash event waiting to happen every time. Advice/tips for a clean procedure appreciated!
So how are you all avoiding a major mess with a plug that drops straight down? I'm used to our Volvos which have a traditional horizontal threaded plug which doesn't let the oil out until the very last thread turn. This lets me get my hand out of the way right before it comes out. This looks like a major splash event waiting to happen every time. Advice/tips for a clean procedure appreciated!
It's really not that bad if your quick and wear nitrile gloves. My 23 Corvette also has a vertical oil drain plug and it wasn't bad either. I recommend using the allen head for the drain plug removal and it's wise to keep a spare drain plug on hand since it's plastic, but at the very least some spare o-rings. I'm actually going to post some stuff for sale like an oil change kit (AC Delco ultraguard oil filter, GM drain plug w/o-ring, another GM o-ring for the drain plug) and some other stuff.
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Picked up this funnel on Amazon the other day for my 18 ZR2 and found out it also fits the Trailblazer perfect. It will actually fit most GM vehicles with a 1/2 turn oil fill cap. This will be especially helpful on the Trailblazer since the oil fill hole has small drain back passages which makes spilling easy. The funnel screws into the oil fill tube with an o-ring just like the factory cap.

Engine oil funnel for GM vehicles

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Currently unavailable on Amazon and every place i found that same part number is sold out. I found a different 1/2 turm funnel like that on amazon but they said it wont fit a 21-22 trailblazer.


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Currently unavailable on Amazon and every place i found that same part number is sold out. I found a different 1/2 turm funnel like that on amazon but they said it wont fit a 21-22 trailblazer.


I've seen the same funnel made by OEM, green and clear if I remember correctly. These funnels are not model specific, so it doesn't surprise me Amazon says it doesn't fit. This "GM vehicle" funnel actually fits the new Trailblazer, Colorado, Corvette, Blazer ,etc and many older GM vehicles back into the 90's.
I've seen the same funnel made by OEM, green and clear if I remember correctly. These funnels are not model specific, so it doesn't surprise me Amazon says it doesn't fit. This "GM vehicle" funnel actually fits the new Trailblazer, Colorado, Corvette, Blazer ,etc and many older GM vehicles back into the 90's.
I ended up ordering this one..ARES 56019 - Oil Funnel for GM - Spll-Free Oil Filling - Easy to Use 1-Person Design - Fits Multiple Applications https://a.co/d/2S0n9z7

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I ended up ordering this one..ARES 56019 - Oil Funnel for GM - Spll-Free Oil Filling - Easy to Use 1-Person Design - Fits Multiple Applications https://a.co/d/2S0n9z7

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Good? Fits nice?
Good? Fits nice?
Seems like it'll work pretty good,
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I ended up ordering this one..ARES 56019 - Oil Funnel for GM - Spll-Free Oil Filling - Easy to Use 1-Person Design - Fits Multiple Applications https://a.co/d/2S0n9z7

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Looks the same. 👍

Trailblazer


Colorado


C8 Corvette
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For a 1.3 what oild brand is recommended?
Will 0w/20 mobil synthetic dexos work? I dont want to void any warrenty if i can help it.

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For a 1.3 what oild brand is recommended?







Will 0w/20 mobil synthetic dexos work? I dont want to void any warrenty if i can help it.















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talk
Mobile One is the best available and won't cause warranty problems.
Good deal. That's what I was wanting to use.
Does anyone know what the torque spec is for a 2023 LT? My oil drain plug takes a torx bit.
Does anyone know what the torque spec is for a 2023 LT? My oil drain plug takes a torx bit.
8mm allen, no torque spec.
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