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Oil and filter change, 1.3T RS AWD

42087 Views 60 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  martin.rigid66
10
I decided to do my first oil change today on my RS with the 1.3T engine which now has 3500 miles.

The 1.3T engine calls for 4.8 quarts of 0W/20 Dexos synthetic oil and a GM/AC Delco PF66 or UPF66R oil filter. K&N also makes an oil filter for the 1.3T, part number HP-1021. If you have the 1.2T engine the oil is 5W/30 and also requires a different filter. I bought Royal Purple oil since it's higher quality than most oils, but I would also recommend Mobil 1 which is factory fill on most GM's.
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I removed the whole plastic splash shield to get some pictures, but there is an access door that's easier to remove for oil changes.

If you remove the whole shield it's (13) 7mm screws and (3) plastic reusable rivets that hold the shield in place. The smaller access panel is just (3) 7mm screws.

The drain plug is a twist lock/unlock design with a large o-ring so it doesn't require a torque spec. The plug requires an 8mm allen wrench and is located on the plastic oil pan. If you would like to have a spare oil drain plug on hand the GM part number is 55498782.
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The first recommended oil change is at 7500 miles, but after only 3600 miles the oil was very dark which I figured it would be for break in oil, so don't wait 7500 miles, lol.

I also clean the MAF sensor when doing an oil change. If you decide to do this you'll need to remove (2) T20 torx screws and use CRC MAF cleaner.

One word of caution! When filling with new oil, the fill hole has a small drain into the engine so pour the oil in slowly or it will overflow and spill out.

Here are some random pics I took while I was underneath.

Cool Watts Link rear end location system which keeps the rear axle centered properly.
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Exhaust system.
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One thing I found interesting was that the electric parking brake locks the front wheels and not the rear wheels like most vehicles.
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What you see in the picture is how the Activ is configured. No door for access. Just a cut out.
Definitely makes it faster. 馃憤 Is the skid plate steel or aluminum?
Definitely makes it faster. 馃憤 Is the skid plate steel or aluminum?
It's steel. I'd say it's about 1/4" thick. I'll take more pictures of it when I get home and start a new thread. I don't think there is a thread on the skid plate yet.
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It's steel. I'd say it's about 1/4" thick. I'll take more pictures of it when I get home and start a new thread. I don't think there is a thread on the skid plate yet.
Thank you. Pictures and details help us all learn about the Trailblazer. A new topic would be a good idea so the info doesn't get buried here. I can also take more pictures of the plastic splash shield that the RS and other models have.
I wonder what the thought process is for leaving the filter area open on the ACTIV model but covered on others? You would think that since that is the more rugged model, it would be covered to keep debris out.
Looks like a bigger opening, but I would still remove the shield. Oil never drains straight down for me, and I don't want to have dripping afterwards. Just my OCD馃榿
I wonder what the thought process is for leaving the filter area open on the ACTIV model but covered on others? You would think that since that is the more rugged model, it would be covered to keep debris out.
Looks like a bigger opening, but I would still remove the shield. Oil never drains straight down for me, and I don't want to have dripping afterwards. Just my OCD馃榿
That's why I take the whole shield off, ocd here too, lol.
BE ADVISED 0w-20 oil is LIKE WATER, and once you twist that plug off, it's going to gush out LIKE WATER. Be ready for it. Just did mine, and I'm used to threaded plugs giving you time to reset the container if necessary. DO NOT count on that.
The drain plug is also bigger than most threaded plugs so it does come out fast. I recommend replacing the o-ring after a few oil changes to help prevent leaks. The o-ring part number is 12667457.
Yes, however the filter might be a little more difficult to remove and install since it's harder to get your hands around it. I used a filter wrench/socket that fits the PF66 perfectly to remove and install the filter. With the right tools it's easy to do the oil change with the splash shield installed, but without the wrench/socket it would definitely be easier with the whole shield removed.

Steve
What size filter /socket it take ? 74/76
What size filter /socket it take ? 74/76
I believe the 74/76 is correct, but I'd double check that using the PF66 filter for reference. I'm just using a universal one that uses a 3/8" ratchet with self adjusting arms that fits all sizes. They're fairly cheap at Wal-Mart, but most stores have this style.

865
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What size filter /socket it take ? 74/76
I ordered a 74mm x 14 flute wrench, and it fit the PF66 perfectly.
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ZR2LIFE,
How do you like those UPF66R Ultraguard Gold Filters? Do you feel they are better than PF66 filter?
Thanks,
Dale
ZR2LIFE,
How do you like those UPF66R Ultraguard Gold Filters? Do you feel they are better than PF66 filter?
Thanks,
Dale
They are supposed to filter out smaller particles (micron rating), but that's the only difference I see. I always try to use the best filters available which is usually K&N for me, but they don't make a replacement for the PF66 yet. Royal Purple and Mobil 1 also make good filters.
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I ordered a 74mm x 14 flute wrench, and it fit the PF66 perfectly.
Thanks
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Oil drain plug part number added to original post. If you need one as a backup it's GM part number 55498782. I paid $3.20 on ebay through Everett Chevrolet.
903
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@ZR2LIFE do you anticipate a failure mode on these plugs to be the o-ring or something related to plastic deformation? I don't think they are metal, right?
@ZR2LIFE do you anticipate a failure mode on these plugs to be the o-ring or something related to plastic deformation? I don't think they are metal, right?
They are just plastic with an o-ring. It's funny that the plug with the o-ring is cheaper than the o-ring by itself. The o-ring should last a few oil changes before I'd replace it with a fresh one. Since the drain plug is made out of plastic and could break I just wanted to have a spare on hand just in case because you can't just run down to the parts store and buy a new one.
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K&N now makes an oil filter for the 1.3T, part number HP-1021.

942
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I decided to do my first oil change today on my RS with the 1.3T engine which now has 3500 miles.

The 1.3T engine calls for 4.8 quarts of 0W/20 Dexos synthetic oil and a GM/AC Delco PF66 or UPF66R oil filter. K&N also makes an oil filter for the 1.3T, part number HP-1021. If you have the 1.2T engine the oil is 5W/30 and also requires a different filter. I bought Royal Purple oil since it's higher quality than most oils, but I would also recommend Mobil 1 which is factory fill on most GM's.
View attachment 273

I removed the whole plastic splash shield to get some pictures, but there is an access door that's easier to remove for oil changes.

If you remove the whole shield it's (13) 7mm screws and (3) plastic reusable rivets that hold the shield in place. The smaller access panel is just (3) 7mm screws.

The drain plug is a twist lock/unlock design with a large o-ring so it doesn't require a torque spec. The plug requires an 8mm allen wrench and is located on the plastic oil pan. If you would like to have a spare oil drain plug on hand the GM part number is 55498782.
View attachment 270

View attachment 271

View attachment 272

View attachment 902

The first recommended oil change is at 7500 miles, but after only 3600 miles the oil was very dark which I figured it would be for break in oil, so don't wait 7500 miles, lol.

I also clean the MAF sensor when doing an oil change. If you decide to do this you'll need to remove (2) T20 torx screws and use CRC MAF cleaner.

One word of caution! When filling with new oil, the fill hole has a small drain into the engine so pour the oil in slowly or it will overflow and spill out.

Here are some random pics I took while I was underneath.

Cool Watts Link rear end location system which keeps the rear axle centered properly.
View attachment 274

Exhaust system.
View attachment 275

View attachment 276

View attachment 277

View attachment 278

One thing I found interesting was that the electric parking brake locks the front wheels and not the rear wheels like most vehicles.
Found out about the electric brake not locking the rear wheels today when changing my tire... I was like WTH?!?
Found out about the electric brake not locking the rear wheels today when changing my tire... I was like WTH?!?
Exactly why I started a topic on this forum about it. You can see how it could be dangerous if you're not aware of it. I was a little surprised when I first noticed it too.
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