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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to run a permanent USB charging port to the back of the center console, but still have the cigar port available for other devices (GPS or something similar).

Older cars I’ve been able to access the rear of the cigar port quite easily, and this was also prior to a lot of the electronics that are in modern cars like the TB.

The passenger side cover of the center console snaps off/on. Driver’s side has a screw near the gas pedal.

Has anyone done this (yet), and how easy/hard to tap off the rear of the cigar port ?
 

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Tried (and failed) hard wiring a radar detector via the fuse box last night. For whatever reason the cigarette lighter at the fuse is always on. Was thinking of doing what you asked but it looks like disassembling a space shuttle under the dash at the lighter location. Would be interested if anyone has any insight on this...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I took the side panel of the center console off, and ‘space shuttle’ is pretty accurate.

Took a look at the fuse box in the cabin (under the headlight switch). The cigar fuse is actually part of the cigar circuit breaker, and I don’t want to mess with that.

But, it looks like F1 and F2 (Lumbar and Sunroof, right now I don’t remember which is which) are empty, but have provisions to tap into. So I may go that route, I need to pick up a new tester tomorrow to see if either one is hot while the car is off.

I’ve also opted to add a new socket to plug the dash cam into instead of cutting the dash cam cord. That way the integrity of the dash cam system is still intact, and if I need a new one it’s an easy unplug/plug into the second socket.
 

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Yeah I took the side panel of the center console off, and ‘space shuttle’ is pretty accurate.

Took a look at the fuse box in the cabin (under the headlight switch). The cigar fuse is actually part of the cigar circuit breaker, and I don’t want to mess with that.

But, it looks like F1 and F2 (Lumbar and Sunroof, right now I don’t remember which is which) are empty, but have provisions to tap into. So I may go that route, I need to pick up a new tester tomorrow to see if either one is hot while the car is off.

I’ve also opted to add a new socket to plug the dash cam into instead of cutting the dash cam cord. That way the integrity of the dash cam system is still intact, and if I need a new one it’s an easy unplug/plug into the second socket.
I checked EVERY fuse and they all stay on even with the ignition off. I've been hardwiring radar detectors since I was a kid and never ran into an issue like this. If you happen to figure it out please report back. I gave up...
 

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The manual says something about the rear outlet retaining power all the time. did you test the outlets going to the back seat?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I checked EVERY fuse and they all stay on even with the ignition off. I've been hardwiring radar detectors since I was a kid and never ran into an issue like this. If you happen to figure it out please report back. I gave up...
I did a search and found this video. From 4:31 on is what I think we’re looking at.


If I go by what that video is suggesting, then my next question is for anyone with Lumbar seats and/or a sunroof, and if they can be operated without turning the car on in any sense. F1 and F2 are prime candidates for the dash cam socket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Not sure about the seat controls, but the sunroof can not be operated while the car is off.
Then that's where I'll go in.

I'm figuring the same logic as in the video I posted. I mean, if I can't turn, for instance, the rear wiper on unless the key is in at least Accessory, the same should be true with similar features that require the key in the ignition to get power.

I can see the contacts for the Lumbar and the Sunroof on the fuse block. And I'm sitting here waiting for one of the kids, kicking myself for not bringing the tester (that I could test the 'shut down after so many minutes' explanation in the video).

Such is life, but I plan on tackling this tomorrow (weather permitting).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tried (and failed) hard wiring a radar detector via the fuse box last night. For whatever reason the cigarette lighter at the fuse is always on. Was thinking of doing what you asked but it looks like disassembling a space shuttle under the dash at the lighter location. Would be interested if anyone has any insight on this...
Ok, finally got the chance to give this a go.

Did a ‘loose fit’ (just wired, not installed) test, and power stayed on 😐
Waited 45 minutes to see if the system shut itself down (as the video I posted earlier suggests). Power stayed on 😐
Jumped on Facebook and posed the question on a Trailblazer Facebook group. Got pointed to one of these, coming today:

If this works the way it’s been suggested, the in line inductor will sense a power/voltage drop and turn the dash cam off. Yeah, there’s still going to be power at the fuse box, but the TB’s wiring/fuse system will still be operating the way it’s supposed to.

This doesn’t solve my original cigar port question, but it does free up the front cigar socket.

Progress 👍🏻
 

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Ok, finally got the chance to give this a go.

Did a ‘loose fit’ (just wired, not installed) test, and power stayed on 😐
Waited 45 minutes to see if the system shut itself down (as the video I posted earlier suggests). Power stayed on 😐
Jumped on Facebook and posed the question on a Trailblazer Facebook group. Got pointed to one of these, coming today:

If this works the way it’s been suggested, the in line inductor will sense a power/voltage drop and turn the dash cam off. Yeah, there’s still going to be power at the fuse box, but the TB’s wiring/fuse system will still be operating the way it’s supposed to.

This doesn’t solve my original cigar port question, but it does free up the front cigar socket.

Progress 👍🏻
I'm always leery of these dinky electrical components made God knows where...

I think we'd be better off trying to find one of those adapters for the rearview mirror / Onstar that's compatible. Or biting the bullet and tearing apart the center console to get access to the back of the cigarette lighter socket...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just installed the hard wire setup this morning.

Did a few tests over the last couple of weeks, loose fits and overnights, didn’t have any issues with startup. I ended up pulling off the drivers side console ‘kick plate’ (?) and found a nice bolt to loosen and ground to.

Here’s the fuse box before I neatened up the wires. I tapped into the Sunroof spot (Slot #2, 25A).


This is where the regulator module sits at the moment, it has a low blue indicator light.


There’s a hex head screw parallel to the gas pedal, I reinstalled the kick plate before taking a picture of the bolt I used to ground the wiring, so forgive my crude artwork, but this is roughly where that bolt is. Loosen, slide the ground fork on, retighten.


And once the wire is tucked in...


Next wiring project may involve tapping the back of the cigar socket, but for now I’m happy with having the factory cigar socket back.
 

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I used one of these Amazon kits myself to install my dash cam a few months back. Different location for the ground-just to the left of the brake pedal. Works great.

I'm adding a radar detector and am thinking since I used the heated steering wheel fuse already that tapping into the sunroof one would be smart. 😉
 
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