Hello there! I have the 2022 Trailblazer RS and installed a 1800 watt Kicker amp with a pair of Kicker 12" L7S Solo Baric subs. Each sub is rated at 750 watts RMS... And that's exactly what you want to use to match an amp and subs: RMS rating, NEVER peak wattage! So as long as the RMS of the amp is not more than the RMS of the sub, you'll be just fine. In my opinion, find a name brand, decent quality set-up even if it doesn't match the wattage you're looking for. I've heard systems that were allot louder only running 250-450 watts then systems pushing 2-3 times the power bcuz of the quality of the speakers and amp. Best piece of advice I can give is to start with the website:
Crutchfield: Car Stereo and Audio, Speakers, Home Theater, Pro Audio, TVs These guys know their stuff! You can also just put in your year, make, & model and they'll show you what fits and more importantly, step-by-step instructions on how to install everything. Usually, with any order, all installation gear and info is free! Not sure if your model TB has it but mine has the Noise Cancelation which interferes with an aftermarket stereo. There is a bypass harness for that module tho. Getting the power wire thru the firewall can seem difficult but there's actually a pretty big hole already right above and to the left of the brake pedal. You'll need to pull back the carpet and sound deadening but you'll see the factory wire harness running thru that same hole. I needed a 1/0 gauge power wire so I had to cut a little of the factory rubber grommet in order to get it thru. Take a wire coat hanger or something study and skinny and push it thru that grommet on the passenger compartment side a few inches. This will make it very easy to see when looking under the hood. I taped a wire coat hanger to my power wire and pushed it thru. Another tip I can offer would be to highly recommend an Active LOC (powered line output converter) or an amp that has it built in if you're keeping the factory head-unit which as of right now, everyone would recommend bcuz the factory head-unit runs nearly everything for the vehicle. An LOC allows you to get a signal from just a speaker wire and then converts that into a RCA connection for the amp. I have the Kicker KEYLOC which cleans up any signal from any speaker AUTOMATICALLY! Kicker provides free downloads of certain signals that the LOC "learns" from and adjusts it to a low-pass, high voltage output. I know there's better ones out there but this one was only $100 and well worth it. Again, not sure if your model TB has the same thing as mine but there's a 5" subwoofer under your spare tire. I believe this is used as part of the active noise cancellation so it does have a signal going to it that you can tap into. With the wiring diagram from Crutchfield it was very easy to find it and to get a signal I could tap into for the LOC. I can provide pics if you'd like of everything I've said....or you can definitely ask more specific questions and I'll try my best to answer them👍
