Been following this thread for a while and have it bookmarked for all the very useful info. tdharley, can you tell me what the part number is for the baseplate you got for your Activ? My service provider and I have only been able to find references to the RS, LT, and LS, but sadly no Activ Blue Ox...Thanks
I followed your directions and they are much better than the manual. The only thing though I cannot find a green light. I have 2021 TB Activ
I did a little comparison of the RS fascia (what I have and a BlueOx baseplate behind it) to the Activ fascia. The red square is where all the BlueOx attachments are located. It appears that the BlueOx will work with the Activ, but until BlueOx confirms, it's still up in the air.Been following this thread for a while and have it bookmarked for all the very useful info. tdharley, can you tell me what the part number is for the baseplate you got for your Activ? My service provider and I have only been able to find references to the RS, LT, and LS, but sadly no Activ Blue Ox...
Yeah, when I first started doing my research on all this, I superimposed a pic of the RS fascia on top of the Activ fascia in Photoshop and saw the same as you... even the spacing between the 2 outer "faux tow nubs" on the Activ aligned with what would be cut out on both models, which is why I didn't think it was too much of an issue.... but the RV service provider called today and said that the part they received from Blue Ox would not fit the Activ, and after speaking with Blue Ox, they learned that Blue Ox is in fact releasing the Activ version but not until next month, so I'm hoping it will still work out as far as our trip timing goes. One thing that I did notice too, when researching this, is that Blue Ox lists baseplates for the L model too, which cannot be flat towed. It would help if an Activ owner had a part number for the baseplate they used so I could go back to the service provider with it.I did a little comparison of the RS fascia (what I have and a BlueOx baseplate behind it) to the Activ fascia. The red square is where all the BlueOx attachments are located. It appears that the BlueOx will work with the Activ, but until BlueOx confirms, it's still up in the air. View attachment 734
As per my dealer, the RS & Activ body styles are the same accept for colors and packages.Been following this thread for a while and have it bookmarked for all the very useful info. tdharley, can you tell me what the part number is for the baseplate you got for your Activ? My service provider and I have only been able to find references to the RS, LT, and LS, but sadly no Activ Blue Ox...
Thanks for the responses, RandyB and tdharley! You've been very helpful in all this!As per my dealer, the RS & Activ body styles are the same accept for colors and packages.
If the weather hold I will be installing it this weekend.
The Activ has LED lights also You need the proper wiring kit too
Blue Ox Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms
Item # BLU49FR
Yes we willl be installing if the weather holds, I will take picturesThanks for the responses, RandyB and tdharley! You've been very helpful in all this!
tdharley, am I correct in understanding that you have not installed the Blue Ox Base Plate yet, and will do so this weekend?
That's fantastic! Thank you for putting up the detailed info and photos!So I installed the baseplate this weekend. It does fit the Activ as well as the RS. There is a little bit of front fascia cutting and widening 2 holes on the frame. A lot of little "tricks".
1. This is the top were the front clip attaches to the next panel. Note the white "snap in" area. See the next picture for the tabs. Use a plastic wedge to pull out.
Do not pull the side fender guard out too far or you will snap the top fasteners. Also there 2 screws under the wheel trim.
View attachment 763
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2. When you remove the windshield wiper tank, the top filler tool comes out first then drop the tank
View attachment 765
3. Attach the side strengthening plates to the base plate first as some drilling and / or grinding is needed. Install first to mark it out.
4. Use thread lock and check the torque.
5. Snap in the 2 hitch adaptors to help with aligning the front clip when reinstalling
6. Very minimal cutting of front clip
7. The plug on the radiator on the passenger side is a little tricky. You need to pull out the wedge lock then squeeze down ( sounds simple but took me a while to figure it out)
8. You will need 2 people to align the baseplate to the bumper.
9. It is a full day job in the driveway
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I will be complaining to Blue Ox on Monday.
1. Terrible pictures in the instructions. It looks like it was photocopied
2. They give you 2 safety cables and show in the direction that you need 2 locking links each, a total of 4 but only give you 2.
3. A little better hole alignment would be nice but was just a field adjustment.
Next week is wiring and that will be a first for me since it is LED rear lights.
Good luck and take your time
Hi Randy,It has been brought to our attention, by an iRV2.com forum member (Sarz272000), that the procedure for getting the transmission into neutral is not correct. The author states that he has worked with a Chevy service technician to confirm this issue and the resolution. As written, step 3 is incorrect:
View attachment 263
The gear shifter cannot be moved while in accessory mode. Brake pedal or not, it cannot be moved. Step 3 needs to be written something like this:
3. Put the vehicle into SERVICE mode by pressing the engine start/stop button and holding for 3 to 5 seconds until the green light is illuminated.
4. Press the brake pedal and shift the transmission to N (neutral).
No telling if and when the manual will be updated.
I asked local technician to install a battery disconnect switch. He decided to insert the disconnect switch between the negative terminal and the firewall ground lug. He mounted the switch on top of the battery terminal case as shown on picture. This installation does not work because when I turn off the disconnect switch there is power still present on the car. It appears there is another pathway to ground. I am very disapponted and frustrated with the install. I have included a picture for reference. My husband wants to disconnect the negative terminal altogether at the battery just as the procedure states. Any advice would be helpful.I have always switched off the power at the dash switch after shifting to neutral and before disconnecting the battery.
I am also now using a Roadmaster remote battery disconnect that switches the positive side of the battery. The instructions dictate disconnecting the negative battery cable. That is for your own safety.
thank for you patience and timeWith the stealership knowing nothing, their employees knowing even less and the manual being wrong, how could you not be confused? Over the several times I've gone through the process, it has been refined a little since earlier posts.
The list you have cited is very close to what I do, however I do not use the parking brake.
I have the engine running to align the car to the motorhome, so I continue with it running while in the connection phase, in case I need minor car movements. Once the towbar is connected, I will put the gearbox in reverse and backup to extend at least one of the tow bar arms into their fully extended and locked position.
Next, I'll put the gearbox into neutral and shutoff the engine. Alarms will then be sounding.
I will then make sure all the windows are up and that the driver's door is open before I switch off the battery, to stop the warning alarms from ringing. With the battery disconnected, the doors will not lock.
Finally, I will connect the auxiliary braking system, check brake light operation and drive away.
You will develop your own procedure as you gain experience. Probably the biggest take-aways are:
1. Assure that the gearbox is in neutral
2. If you use the parking brake, make sure it is off
3. If you are disconnecting the battery by being under the hood, keep the driver's door open (to prevent it from locking).
4. In the first few feet of the tow, check your mirrors, watch your rearview camera and assure that the tires are rolling, the towbar is fully locked and that the front wheels steer with the coach.
Might I suggest a large empty parking lot for your first connection? Then some slow maneuvers to gain confidence?
It all sounds intimidating, but like all other factors in the RV world, there are so many new things to learn. Slow down, think your way through the situation and logically proceed. Good luck and enjoy your Trailblazer.
I'm not sure the the ride height is any different, but the Activ trim does forego a front air deflector and has a bumper shape that provides a slightly better approach angle versus the RS.Between the RS and Activ trims AWD, is there any difference in ground clearance that would make one Trailblazer better than the other when exploring on and light off-road?