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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Drove it the night before and it was fine. Next morning it would not start as if it had a dead battery. Checked the battery and it was fine. Disconnected battery then reconnected and it started fine, but no cruise control, adaptive cruise control, no lane assist, no forward collision warning, no parking assist, it drives and runs fine but none of the tech works. Tried disconnecting the battery again and nothing has worked to get it back. Any ideas? It's a 2021 RS AWD with all packages.
 

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2021Trailblazer RS AWD Scarlet Red Metallic
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Definitely a warranty issue. Hopefully it's as simple as an update.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Any updates?
Finally got it in to the dealer and they had it for 6 hours and called me to tell me that it's fixed, but that the battery cables that are on the disconnect are causing a low voltage situation that is preventing the collision system from working. I should mention that I use it as a tow vehicle behind my motor home so it has a battery disconnect installed by Camping World. They said I need to go to Camping world and have them upgrade the cables. Now mind you, I have had this installed for months now and have towed thousands of miles without issue. I didn't mention previously that the week prior I had it's first service there where they did an oil change, tire rotation, recalls and a software update. This issue happened just days after that service. In any event, I went and picked up the vehicle and drove it 10 feet and could see that nothing was fixed. It had not changed at all. When I asked them about it, they said that they fixed it but it will keep happening as long as those cables are there. Again, I've been driving it and towing it for months with those cables and I checked and they look fine and everything else works. Question: Is such a thing even possible that a single system on a vehicle would not work because of a battery cable issue? Wouldn't everything stop working? It's only the systems that use the camera that are inoperable (forward collision, lane keep, adaptive cruise). That sounds like a camera problem not a battery problem. The proximity systems like parking assist and side mirror notifications still work fine. So for now I guess I will have to take it back to Camping World just to go through the steps but I know what they will say. Personally I don't think the mechanic could figure it out and he saw an after market battery disconnect and decided to just say that was the problem. It's so frustrating!
 

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2021Trailblazer RS AWD Scarlet Red Metallic
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Do you have some pictures of the disconnect and cables?
 

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2021 Chevy Trailblazer RS AWD
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I too had issues with that type of disconnect. Not the same issue as you are having. Mine was total electrical system shutdown without cause or warning...in traffic while driving!! After replacing that $9 POS with a Roadmaster remote disconnect on the positive cable, no problems since. I would also recommend to never step foot in a Camping World after this gets resolved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah I'd remove that, could definitely cause charging issues.
How could it cause charging issues and why didn't it prior to me taking it in for service? My question is how can just the camera and all the systems that rely on it, be the only thing affected by low voltage (as they say) when nothing else is? That doesn't even make any sense. I actually wanted this one because it's easy to take off and requires no holes or anything else that would void the warranty.
 

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It's the disconnect from RVi Brake that was installed by Camping World.
View attachment 1124
I can see why there is a voltage drop. The terminals and cables are too small for a system with so much current draw. I can't explain why some system are affected while others aren't, but it could be a difference in wire sizes that supply voltage to each system or maybe when the system detects low voltage it prioritizes power to certain systems. The disconnect switch itself isn't the problem, but everything connected to it looks questionable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I can see why there is a voltage drop. The terminals and cables are too small for a system with so much current draw. I can't explain why some system are affected while others aren't, but it could be a difference in wire sizes that supply voltage to each system or maybe when the system detects low voltage it prioritizes power to certain systems. The disconnect switch itself isn't the problem, but everything connected to it looks questionable.
I will remove it and see what happens. I'm not confident it will solve the issue. I'm a logical person with a programming background. Logic tells me that if a system worked for months and thousands of miles and then suddenly stops working after a visit to the service department and a software update, the last thing that changed prior to the system failure is the likely culprit, not the thing the was working prior. You guys are doing exactly what the mechanic did and that is be seduced by the low hanging fruit. Something looking questionable does not make it questionable, it wouldn't suddenly be providing low voltage out of thin air. That's not logical. We shall see what happens.
 

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Like I said I can't tell you why the switch is the problem now when everything used to work just fine. I'm just trying to tell you from someone with an electrical background that the setup pictured is inadequate and could cause problems.

Camping World employees are not electrical engineers and probably shouldn't be installing a system like this without proper training or certification.

I do completely understand what you're saying and logically it does make sense. Since you understand programming you probably know how they design systems to record and store data (detected faults) related to various sensors/systems. Once a programmed threshold has been met it can trigger warning lights and/or shut down systems that are failing. I don't know if that's what happened in your case or if the update somehow screwed something up, but today's systems are very advanced even using algorithms on multiple systems. A higher end scanner would allow you to look at stored fault codes in more detail. The answer to your problem could be in there, however many dealerships won't take the time to go that far especially if they see something like this switch staring at them, then it's just too easy to blame it.

As you mentioned removing it is the only way to prove if it's the switch is causing the problem or something they did when you took it in. I hope you get it figured out, wasting time at a dealership is no fun, I've done it many times myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Like I said I can't tell you why the switch is the problem now when everything used to work just fine. I'm just trying to tell you from someone with an electrical background that the setup pictured is inadequate and could cause problems.

Camping World employees are not electrical engineers and probably shouldn't be installing a system like this without proper training or certification.

I do completely understand what you're saying and logically it does make sense. Since you understand programming you probably know how they design systems to record and store data (detected faults) related to various sensors/systems. Once a programmed threshold has been met it can trigger warning lights and/or shut down systems that are failing. I don't know if that's what happened in your case or if the update somehow screwed something up, but today's systems are very advanced even using algorithms on multiple systems. A higher end scanner would allow you to look at stored fault codes in more detail. The answer to your problem could be in there, however many dealerships won't take the time to go that far especially if they see something like this switch staring at them, then it's just too easy to blame it.

As you mentioned removing it is the only way to prove if it's the switch is causing the problem or something they did when you took it in. I hope you get it figured out, wasting time at a dealership is no fun, I've done it many times myself.
Just as a FYI, there are no fault codes, as far as the system is concerned, everything is A-OK. I would just disconnect it now but I'm in Vegas on vacation and I towed it here and I don't want to mess with anything and make it so it cannot be towed back. I have to be able to disconnect the battery to tow it so I'll tackle this when I get home. It drives perfectly fine, I'll just have to be careful not to run into anything by accident since the fancy camera won't be able to stop me.
 

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Like I said I can't tell you why the switch is the problem now when everything used to work just fine. I'm just trying to tell you from someone with an electrical background that the setup pictured is inadequate and could cause problems.

Camping World employees are not electrical engineers and probably shouldn't be installing a system like this without proper training or certification.

I do completely understand what you're saying and logically it does make sense. Since you understand programming you probably know how they design systems to record and store data (detected faults) related to various sensors/systems. Once a programmed threshold has been met it can trigger warning lights and/or shut down systems that are failing. I don't know if that's what happened in your case or if the update somehow screwed something up, but today's systems are very advanced even using algorithms on multiple systems. A higher end scanner would allow you to look at stored fault codes in more detail. The answer to your problem could be in there, however many dealerships won't take the time to go that far especially if they see something like this switch staring at them, then it's just too easy to blame it.

As you mentioned removing it is the only way to prove if it's the switch is causing the problem or something they did when you took it in. I hope you get it figured out, wasting time at a dealership is no fun, I've done it many times myself.
Hi there, I saw your post and I recently purchased a 2021 TB with 300 miles back in August. I now have 5K and last week it started doing the same thing as you explained.No forward collision, lane keep, adaptive cruise, the buttons don't even do anything when I press them. All was working great, and just stopped. I have checked for updates and there is none. I have removed my toll tag that was under my rearview mirror thinking that was the issue. Still, no fix, and the dealership I spoke with told me to drop it off but couldn't give me a time frame and they told me they had no rentals available and this is my only vehicle, hoping someone has found a fix.....or do I just need to take it in and rent a car? Hate that I am paying for a car with all these excellent features that don't work.

Sarah
 

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Hi there, I saw your post and I recently purchased a 2021 TB with 300 miles back in August. I now have 5K and last week it started doing the same thing as you explained.No forward collision, lane keep, adaptive cruise, the buttons don't even do anything when I press them. All was working great, and just stopped. I have checked for updates and there is none. I have removed my toll tag that was under my rearview mirror thinking that was the issue. Still, no fix, and the dealership I spoke with told me to drop it off but couldn't give me a time frame and they told me they had no rentals available and this is my only vehicle, hoping someone has found a fix.....or do I just need to take it in and rent a car? Hate that I am paying for a car with all these excellent features that don't work.

Sarah
If you haven't modified or added anything to the electrical system then your best option is to take it in under warranty. Hopefully you just need an update, but no matter what your covered. The rental car market is overwhelmed right now so if this is your only vehicle make sure you line up a rental before taking it in.
 
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